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Italy is a wonderful country, with nice people, but it is quite expensive.

rain 26 °C
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Tuesday September 20th

We had advance notice, I suppose, that things were about to go badly, when the train doors declined to open. On our return from an afternoon excursion to Barletta, the next town down the train line, we had arrived at our stop, Trani, and were waiting for the doors to open automatically. After a brief time, we thought that there might be more to the process than simply waiting, a button of sorts, perhaps, and we looked slightly frantically but in vain, as the train slowly moved out of the station.

Luckily, the next stop was only five minutes down the line, and we watched carefully as a young man prepared to get off. He stood, casually, confidently, with a slight swagger, and the doors opened automatically as the train stopped. Really quite simple, actually. You just will the doors to open. The next train back to Trani, in the opposite direction came five minutes later, but in that time we saw a few flashes of lighting, some brief thunder, and pouring, driving rain.

The Italian gutters empty straight onto the sidewalk, and you have to jump the streams of water as you make your way down the sidewalk. After our fifteen minute walk back to our hotel (ten minutes to the store to pick up the pasta we had seen that morning, unfortunately sold out, then another five minutes from there) we were absolutely soaked. Wet through. Having no advance notice that it was going to pour, or at least having wilfully ignored the earlier scattered shower and imminent clouds, we were woefully unprepared for the downpour, dressed more appropriately for Istanbul and 30 degrees, rather than what seemed like a typical day in Victoria. Soaked.

Trani, by the way, is lovely, and you should visit it whenever you’re trying not to stay in Bari. The old town is super full of character and charm. The streets are winding and narrow, and you have to mind carefully the one way traffic. The sidewalks, if there, are less than a foot wide, and there is little room to manoeuvre. It reminds me most of the Juderia in Cordoba. Susan says it reminds her of the Barri Gotic in Barcelona, but we didn’t go there on our last trip, and I have no recollection of it from our trip in 1992. The houses here in the old town are old. There are many palazzos with plaques on the wall giving their background information, and many appear to date to the fifteenth century. The cathedral, which is Norman, dates to about 1100. Consequently, it lacks the significant adornment of a Gothic cathedral, like Koln, which is some 400 years more recent. The cathedral purportedly contains the bones of a Saint Nicholas, who was thought locally to be a fool whilst alive, because he ran through the streets shouting “kyrie elieson” but was posthumously credited with several miracles. Interestingly, according to the Lonely Planet, the remains of St. Nicholas are in a different church, and his ashes are in an altogether different church. The most interesting feature of the cathedral is its location. It is right on the waterfront. There is a castle (used as a prison from the mid 1800’s until 1974) a couple of hundred metres to the north, but the cathedral would have been in a remarkably unprotected location at a time when fortification and defense was one of the primary concerns of cities. Strange.

Now, although we are enjoying our small town in Italy, the problem is that Italy is expensive. Very expensive. We researched for two hours in an internet cafe, where oddly, there was no actual cafe in evidence, before finding our current hotel, the “Centro Storico.” At 100 Euros a night, it is no bargain, but a room in a grungy hostel in Bari with a 62% trip advisor approval would have cost the same amount. And, both the town of Trani and our hotel are absolutely worth the 2.50 Euro and 30 minute train ride away from Bari. Our hotel, according to the Lonely Planet (our research with Hostelworld, Booking.com, and Venere led us no farther than the first listing in the LP), is an old monastery, and it is spectacular. Absolutely magnificent. We feel as though we are living in a castle. It is made from the rusticated Trani stone, very pale, that is common in these parts. Everywhere there are arches, the twenty foot ceilings are the domes made from four arches (don’t know the technical term) you see in cathedrals, and the overall effect is quite stunning. The hotel is run by an elderly couple (if your Italian is non-existent, best brush up on your French) and another man who might be their son, although we have no evidence to back that up. The old man told us an interesting story, in French, about some faces carved into one of the walls and featured on their outside sign.

Here’s Sunny now, to relate the story:

Sunny: Ok, so my French has had a three month repose, but I will translate what I am pretty sure the old man said to me. There are three faces carved into stone that you notice as you go to climb the stairs to the courtyard. The middle one, he says, was the king of Trani. He has a crown on his head that you notice if you really look. His wife, the queen, is the face to the left and his son is the face to the right. The story is about his son. When the king’s son came into power he found out that the king’s wife, whom he had grown up under the care of, was not really his mother. He proceeded to go on a search for his birth mother, and found her in a small nearby town. (It seems like a tedious search. “Hello! I am the king of Trani. I was just wondering: are you my mother?” Jeez, I don’t know how long it took him!) He could not reveal to his people that he wasn’t the son of their queen, so he kept the whole affair a secret. THE END. Yeah, that’s the end as far as I can tell. Anyways, it’s cool to know who those faces are supposed to be!

Kas: We have enjoyed our brief stay in this delightful little town, our marvellously character-filled hotel/castle, our wandering to find groceries in the little streets and equally little bakeries, delis, and mini markets of the town, and our visit to neighbouring Barletta. Tomorrow, we leave Trani and go back to Bari to catch our overnight ferry to Dubrovnik.

Susan: My turn now. I haven’t written much on this blog. I usually read Kas’ posts before they go out to the teeming masses, and they’re bang on. I do find, though, that they are a bit lacking in the human interest aspect of the trip. To give some examples from this leg:

- On the ferry to Bari from Patras, we sat and ate our provisions that evening out on the part of the deck that is also part of the bar, so there is a waiter serving people stuff and lots of people watching football on the T.V. On his way past, the waiter noticed that we had opened a wee bottle of ouzo for the big Karims to have with our toast crackers and can of tuna, and returned a couple of minutes later with two plastic cups filled with ice. He explained it’s nicer to drink it that way.

- Here in Trani and Barletta, the people are really very friendly and helpful, though it doesn’t seem like they get many tourists, at least not English-speaking ones. We’ve heard pretty much no English, and the people in shops will happily chat at length to you in Italian even though you are showing little or no comprehension of what they’re saying. Partly, I think it’s because we occasionally understand a word or two and perhaps they overestimate how much we are getting. But mostly it’s because I suspect they have no English to pull out in order to bridge the language gap, as the Greek and Turkish people seemed to have. One customer at the deli told Kas a long story about how her son likes, or doesn’t much like, a particular item we were thinking about getting.

- We somehow ended up as spectators at a wedding at the Trani cathedral this morning (who gets married on a Tuesday morning, I wondered, especially when the church is open for tourists at that time and a guided tour was taking place?) Anyway, we thought it looked like it was set up for a wedding because it had lots of flowers outside and, sure enough, when we peeked in the service was underway. Because there were other obvious non-guests going in and out, we did too, and got to see the bride and groom being presented to their friends and family by the priest. We applauded along with everyone else. I thought it would be over at that point, but there was still lots more prayers and hymns and such, so we went downstairs to see the crypt where St. Nicholas apparently lies instead. Some cool frescoes down there. The wedding was still going strong when we left 20 minutes later.

- The girls had some lemon gelato today, and boy was it good. Ali found it a bit too sour and handed the end of hers off to me. Thus continues her ice cream tour of Europe. She had tons in Germany, courtesy of Uncle Nizar, and has sampled it everywhere else as well. German ice cream is intricately presented. Turkish ice cream (dondurma) is kind of gummy, and sometimes they put on a show when selling it on the street. Her experience with Greek ice cream was limited to frozen novelties from the corner stores, and a 1 Euro milkshake from McDonalds (so we could avail ourselves of their free wifi, not because we are dumb tourists who go to McDonalds all the time. Although we also went there in Bari, and had the world’s tiniest espresso and a brioche for a Euro, again so we could use the wifi - but it didn’t work.)

Posted by teamkarim 11:45 Archived in Italy Comments (0)


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Sunday September 25

I am falling a bit behind here, so just a quick entry on Split before we retire for the night. We have just been out for a quick stroll around the old town in the evening. We had a magical experience watching salsa dancing in the peristyle of Diocletian´s Palace, surely one of the most splending locations for a dance floor. Split´s big draw is the summer palace of Emperor Diocletian, built around 300 AD. Since then, the town of Split has grown up around it. The old town is a wonderful mess of buildings, mostly seeming to date from the 16th to 18th century, organically grown up within the walls of the palace. The peristyle is in fairly good shape, opposite matched sets of marble columns and arches. The connecting loggia is currently under scaffolding. Behind one set of arches is Diocletian´s mausoleum, converted into a cathedral, with additional bell tower. The other set of arches has been incorporated into the wall of a couple of palazzos, now the ˝Luxor˝ cafe. Between the arches is a small plaza, paved with marble. Last night we watched middle aged tourists dancing awkwardly to a live singer. Tonight, salsa dancing! Such energy and movement. It looks fun!

The Peristyle, now the Luxor Cafe

The Peristyle, now the Luxor Cafe

The Peristyle comes alive at night with music and dancing.

The Peristyle comes alive at night with music and dancing.


Posted by teamkarim 14:23 Archived in Croatia Comments (0)

It's time to split Split

semi-overcast 29 °C
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Tuesday September 27

On the bus between Split and Zadar. We just passed an old babushka (ok, wrong country, but same idea) walking down the street carrying a pickaxe. We spent three nights in Split. It took a while to figure out our travel plans between Spit and Venice, where we are reserved for October 1st. We had two basic options: go to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, and from there take the night train on September 30th; or, go up the coast to Rijeka, right near the border with Italy, and then take a bus to Trieste and train to Venice. The whole Zagreb thing has been a bit problematic, travel philosophy wise, because it takes about 8 hours to go from Split to Zagreb, whether by bus or train. We thought we had discovered a good plan, to go from Split to Hvar Island, then take the last Jadrolinija ferry of the season up the coast to Rijeka. This had the benefit of being cheapish and another night ferry, but that fell through when we discovered all the cabins were booked, and we weren’t relishing the thought of the fourth “deck” class night ferry in fifteen days. So, here’s the plan: three hour bus ride to Zadar, on the coast, where we spend one or two nights, followed by a three and a half hour bus ride to Zagreb, where we spend one or two nights, then night train (just booked it today, $300) to Venice on the thirtieth.

Split was quite excellent in many ways, and so we stayed three nights, although you could easily “do” the town in two. Split is the third largest city in Croatia, about 250 thousand, out of a total population of about 4.5 million. Where do they all live? However, as usual we were largely confined to the old town area. The entire town is built up around Diocletian’s Palace, and it’s a marvellous area to walk around in and just soak up the atmosphere. Even the old town looks like an area that’s populated and used by regular people, although obviously the tourist infrastructure is pretty dense in comparison to the other side of the road, where you find the newer part of the city. There is a waterfront promenade, right in front of the facade of Diocletian’s Palace. Back in the day this was all water, and one of the four entrances to the palace was reachable only by boat. However, from various old drawings and painting we have seen it looks like the waterfront area was well developed by the fifteenth century.
Our accommodation, Hostel Sunseekers, is a relatively new place, starting back in May. It is run by a very nice young couple who trade off work hours so they can mind their one year old. Our hostel is PERFECTLY located. The travel infrastructure in Split is exceptionally well placed. The ferry, bus station, and train station are all in one spot, right along the port. After getting off the bus, it only took a few minutes to walk to the southeast corner of Diocletian’s Palace. Our hostel is just outside the northwest corner of the palace, but still very much in the old town. To reach it, you go down a narrow alley (not the narrowest alley in town, which is on the side of The Temple of Jupiter) off the main square of the old town. It was very quiet at night, and there was a cafe/bar just outside the front door, although we did not go there except for morning coffee today. The first night, there were only three other travellers, the second night only two, and we were all alone on our last night. Apparently the tourist accommodation season in Split only lasts basically from mid June to mid September. There was no shortage of tourists in town, however, as we were constantly trying to make our way through or around large tour groups, all dutifully following their guide, or standing in place listening to the guide’s spiel whilst blocking the entire narrow road. Hey, in several weeks that will be us! But Split is not a town that requires any kind of organized guided tour for even the most reluctant or inexperienced traveller; in fact, a tour would just get in the way of walking around and enjoying this beautiful old town.

We have enjoyed eating in Split, perhaps more than the meat oriented traditional Croatian diet might suggest. Our breakfast has largely been courtesy of one or more of the local Konzum grocery stores (say it with your best Croatian accent, it’s killer). Other than that, we have been consuming a steady diet of burek, supplemented with pizza, and last night, soparnik. Burek is more or less the same as it was in Turkey, a very light pastry filled with the ubiquitous Eastern Mediterranean soft cheese. The slices here were absolutely massive and filling, for a mere eleven kuna, about $2. Soparnik is a traditional Dalmatian dish, a spinach and dough combination, but quite unlike spanakopita. Susan also had a grilled corn cob, just like in Turkey. We ate out our second night at a Lonely Planet recommended pizza restaurant, tuna pizza and onion pizza, for 130 kuna. Mind you, that included a $4 750ml bottle of “natural” water. The water here in Croatia has been excellent. Susan even suggested, sacreligiously I’d say, that the water in Dubrovnik was “as good” as the water in Victoria. Well, it was pretty good, and eminently drinkable, which we couldn’t say about Greece or Turkey.

We were wandering through the market just outside the east wall of Diocletian’s Palace. A large number of buildings that had been attached to the wall were removed after the end of the World War II, and have now been replaced by souvenir tents. Just east of these tents is an actual market, full of people selling their vegetables and homemade olive oil. Having just bought 2 kuna worth of carrots from one lady with a large selection of produce, we then passed a forlorn old lady, sitting at a bench with two bunches of carrots and perhaps five small eggplant. It would have been nice to buy something from her, she looked so lonely. We passed a man with a small display of bottles. Now this was interesting. The national drink of Croatia, next to Pivo (beer) is rakia, which is fermented “just about anything” they can get their hands on. Many Mediterranean and Balkan countries seem to enjoy fermenting strange substances to create virtually undrinkable alcohol which is then consumed in large quantities by a significant percentage of the population. In Turkey, the Raki (pronounced Raku, I think) is just ridiculous, but the Turks love it. This man showed us his various concoctions and suggested we try some. So we did. This hygienic process consisted of him pouring a small quantity from each bottle in turn into the cap, from which we then sipped. One very lightly coloured liquid had some unknown herbs resting in the bottle. “Not ladies,” he suggested. “Not ladies.” He was correct, as it was the strongest of the bunch. The cherry was the best one, rich and dark, sweetly flavourful, and easy to drink. The real difficulty lay in which bottle to purchase. The most attractive bottle was also the cheapest, 50 kuna. However, it was only 200ml and, since it was glass we’d be paying mostly for the need-to-dispose-of-this-quickly bottle itself. The 500ml bottle was a better choice, at a reasonable 75 kuna. But wait, what about the 1.5L, reused Nestea çay bottle. At only 100 kuna, it provided the best value and, incidentally, would be a good choice for the environment. Currently, we’re down to 1L, stored in separate 500ml bottles.

We went to an urban beach our last day in Split, but I think it likely marked the end of our “Beach Tour of Europe.” For an urban beach it was ok, though not nearly in the same class as Lapad in Dubrovnik. The water was not nearly as warm as we have been accustomed to, however, and the wane of summer and increasingly northerly latitudes will likely make Lapad the last truly magnificent ocean swim. Until we get to the Caribbean!

Posted by teamkarim 07:26 Archived in Croatia Comments (0)


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Wednesday September 28

Today will be our last day in Zadar. Tomorrow, we take the bus to Zagreb, our final destination in this very beautiful and well worth visiting country of Croatia. Zadar is apparently not as big a tourist destination as other Croatian cities. It has a number of resorts, largely oriented towards Germans, it seems, in the area known as Borik, a good twenty five minutes walk west of the old town. We are located about twenty five minutes northwest of the old town, and twenty five minutes northeast of Borik. For some reason, there are few sources of accommodation in or near the old town, unlike Split. Today, we walked to Borik and found the nicest beach, a sandy shallow cove in front of a hotel. Most of the beaches were rocky, and this one would likely be packed in the middle of summer, but today there were less than twenty people there. The water was nice, albeit not as warm as we have become accustomed to enjoying. Still, it was an excellent way to spend our last official beach day for some time.

Zadar’s old city is nice, although not nearly as atmospheric as Split or as impressive as Dubrovnik. The city walls exist largely on the north side, where a delightful footbridge crosses the harbour. We walked over the footbridge and through the town, heading towards the southern waterfront promenade. We continued west and found one of the most unique features we have seen in any city. It is known as the “Sea Organ.” Sitting down on the steps at the edge of the water, you are surrounded by random musical notes of varying intensity. For perhaps a distance of 30m, the ocean waves play music. We sat and watched the sun set, listening to the natural sound of the waves, and the eerily beautiful music. As if that weren’t quite a perfect enough way to end the day, we then walked a brief distance to the “Greet the Sun” installation, a 20m diameter circle of led’s, programmed to display ever changing patterns in varying colours. The installation collects solar power through the day, and starts its display when the sun sets. Unfortunately, technology being rather finicky, about a third of the circle was dark, but it was still pretty neat. I liked the Sea Organ better. On our walk home, we stopped short of the footbridge and instead caught a ride across the narrowest section of the harbour from a fellow in a rowboat. His is a traditional if fading job, although I can’t remember the correct name for his occupation. For 5 kuna apiece, he rowed us across the water, docking just seconds before the massive Jadrolinija ferry passed through the same piece of water.

Zadar is buggy. Mosquitos. I was sitting on the front porch of our apartment late this afternoon, about 4, dodging the little buggers and trying to finish posting on the blog. Luckily, they seem to be the type that result in bites of intense itchiness for the first hour that then fades fairly rapidly. Last night we stayed at the Apartmanti Amico, from booking.com. The configuration of the rooms on the website was unnecessarily obtuse, and the proprietor was unhappy with our 58 Euro booking. He put us in a two bedroom apartment instead of the one bedroom with sofa bed but wanted 70 Euros, so we compromised on 65. It was very modern and well appointed, but we only took it for one night at the time. In the morning, discovering that it had been rented out from under us for the next night, we were moved across the street to Lilija’s townhouse. This is our first real experience this trip with “Sobe”, the system by which normal folk rent out their apartments or houses. The guidebooks all promise that in the high season you will be greeted by these people in towns throughout Greece and particularly Croatia, but in our experience there have been very few. The only town where we have seen them in any real number has been Split.

While the girls were working on their Math homework and Susan was having a nap, Lilija gave me some Maraska (cherry rakia) and apple pastry and told me her story. Her English ability is a result of learning in school (she is 65) and talking to people in this past year that she has been renting her apartment. Her husband, a plumber, died 6 months ago from lung disease. He was not a smoker, but she is. Her son has multiple sclerosis; his condition worsened when he was 25, about 10 years ago, and he has been in hospital for the past few years. He does not eat meat, and she cooks his meals for him and takes them to him every day. Her daughter is a doctor, married to a doctor, and lives in another town, perhaps on one of the islands. She has two grandchildren, a 19 year old girl who is starting university in Zagreb this year (studying English and Italian) and a teenage boy. Her husband used to make about 4,000 kuna a month, after working for 40 years. She makes about 2,500 kuna, presumably a pension after 35 years of working as an administrator in “shopping.” Given that her husband has died, she does not seem to have any of his pension benefit. And, she must pay about 800 kuna to help cover the cost of her son’s hospitalization. So, her total income is about $350 a month. Well, you can buy a litre of beer in the grocery store for just over $2 (I bought a 1L bottle of Kovalasko, which seems to be popular locally, that was for some unknown reason in the sale bin, for 6 kuna, just over $1), and spectacular ice cream in the middle of the old town for just over $1, but most other groceries currently seem to be fairly comparable to Canada, if perhaps slightly cheaper overall. So, Lilija doesn’t have much of an income. She had her husband build the upstairs apartment in her house in the last year of his life, as they both realized that she would need some way of supplementing her income. And now she has been renting it out to guests, like many other Croatians seem to be doing. I don’t know if she’ll still be able to rent it out in another 10 years, when Croatia has had more time to develop more tourist infrastructure. Developers and investors will continue to build hotels, which over time will presumably also cater to more of a budget market than they currently service, consequently eroding the Sobe market share. She has a cherry tree in the back garden, and her homemade maraska was very good.

The waterfront promenade in Zadar.

The waterfront promenade in Zadar.

Street sweeper with straw broom.

Street sweeper with straw broom.

Greet the Sun.

Greet the Sun.

Greet the Sun.

Greet the Sun.

Posted by teamkarim 01:24 Archived in Croatia Comments (0)


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Thursday September 29th

We arrived in Zagreb after a relatively painless three and a half hour bus ride on the new toll highway. Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, is also its largest city. As far back as the 1500’s, Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, controlled by the Hapsburgs, who, if you have ever been to Vienna and seen many different portraits of various Hapsburgs scattered about the city, were as immensely ugly as they were powerful. As the largest city in the area, Zagreb’s architecture and culture were heavily influenced by Austria, and many aspects of the city are a mixture of both Austrian and Balkan. After being on the losing side of World War I, the Hapsburg empire began to crumble, and the Slovenes and Croats seized the opportunity to declare independence, joining with Serbia to create the Kingdom of Slovenes, Croats, and Serbs, which must have seemed like a good idea for a brief time. This later became Serb-dominated Yugoslavia, a Soviet block socialist republic that disintegrated in the early 1990’s.

The Austrian influenced architecture lends Zagreb a much more continental European atmosphere than any of the places we have visited in Greece, Turkey, or coastal Croatia. The buildings are like those I remember, many years ago, from places like Paris and Vienna, and the wide straight avenues and large open spaces are much more similar to Dusseldorf than Split. Perhaps because of these features, Zagreb looks like a very cosmopolitan city. There is also what appears to be a very efficient and useful tram service. From the bus station, we took a tram a bit less than a kilometre to the train station. There are tram lines running all over the small part of the city that we have explored, and as they are often packed they are clearly well used.

Our accommodation, the International Youth Hostel, (one of the few relatively affordable choices in town) was a five minute walk north of the train station. It is a superb location, particularly given that we are leaving by train (23:30 tomorrow), but it has an institutional atmosphere. Still, the beds are newish, the room is tidy, and the bathrooms are newly renovated and clean. As we explored the city after settling in, we kept our eyes peeled for dinner sources. As in other Croatian cities, there are small and medium markets on many streets, sometimes very close together, and it is surprising that so many of them can survive. Our favourite is Konzum, and we spotted a nice big one. In addition to our Konzum supplies, we picked up a couple of pieces of Burek, as this may be our last opportunity to enjoy this treat.

One of the hundreds of cafes in Zagreb.

One of the hundreds of cafes in Zagreb.

The famous Dolac market.

The famous Dolac market.

Buying cheese in the Dolac market.

Buying cheese in the Dolac market.

Friday, September 30th

Today, we checked out of the Youth Hostel at 10:15am, put our bags in the lockers in the common room, and hit the town. We must pick up our bags before 22:00, our train arrives at 23:23, and our train departs at 23:50. So, we wandered around town, first seeing the lower town and the Botanical Gardens, then back up to the upper part of the town around the cathedral, where we were yesterday. Zagreb is a wonderful city to walk around in. The streets are wide and open, the people are very nice, the cafes are filled with people at all hours of the day, everyone in the service industries speaks English, and it just seems like a nice place to be. We saw the cathedral, which is a bit of a mish mash given the number of times it’s been rebuilt in the past 1000 years, and Susan and Alison went on the world’s shortest and most pointless funicular.

Zagreb is a city of cafes. There are streets that are entirely lined with cafes, with literally hundreds if not perhaps a thousand cafe seats in the middle of the street. It is simply astounding how many cafes there are, and equally astounding that there are actually enough people to fill the seats. The prices for drinks seem fairly reasonable to my sensibilities. An espresso is 7 kuna ($1.25) , espresso with milk 10 kuna ($1.85), and a cappuccino is 13 kuna ($2.25). Half a litre of beer is 15 kuna ($2.75). We have been trying to use up our remaining kuna without having to take any more out of the bank, so we have been monitoring their departure carefully today. We had coffee and ice tea in the morning (24 kuna), bread and cheese and fruit for lunch (50 kuna), burek for dinner (40 kuna), and ice cream for dessert (24 kuna). With our last 31 kuna, purchased a package of mini toasts, a bag of cookies, and some “Juicy” orange juice. Now we're just waiting out the last of the evening before the train goes, watching a Fran Drescher movie at the hostel. Fran Drescher is inexplicably popular in these parts, it seems; we watched everal episodes of "The Nanny" in Greece. Anyway, we have spent a nice 10 hours exploring the city today. A month ago, Alison would have been weary after an hour and we would have heard about it. Now, after a month of travelling under her belt, she is good to go all day.

The guide books say that Zagreb is a great city to visit, without really providing any of the usual must see or do activities. There is no Acropolis and no Guggenheim equivalent. Sit in a cafe, they say. And, somehow, they are right. Perhaps one reason that Zagreb feels so different, so new, is that we have come from the south and the coast. We have been in many medieval “old” towns, with windy streets and buildings made of rusticated stone. Zagreb is a much newer, more modern city. Zagreb feels different, and it is good.

Posted by teamkarim 12:39 Archived in Croatia Comments (0)

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